Most weapons are fundamentally the same. 1. they're a fibreglass core 2. they're covered in foam 3. they're shaped like whatever you want them to look like 4. they're painted / latexed whatever colour they need to be
Making a baseball bat really isn't that much different to making a sword. They're just different shapes and different colours.
I've done a tutorial here on making weapons. I'm sure you can imagine the same thing but a wooden baseball bat, using a fibreglass core, not aluminium...
Walter gave me this crazy whimsical idea for my teonn character, and since i am not at all inclined/knowledgable in the craft of weaponmaking i thought i would ask all of your advice. I am wanting to make/commison a Trident for my water elemental.
For the trident, would it be recommended to use a solid core for all three prongs? And if so, what sort of solid core? I had the idea that using a spring sort of thing might work (but what material for said spring?). Something like this:
My worry with using just foam is having the fork break in combat. I guess it would work well if the fork was thing and long - you could use it just like an elaborate spear. But if the prongs were wider you would risk them breaking off if they caught on something.
If you want to be able to stab with it, then the core can't be too close to the end. But if the core is a long way from the end, then the foam points will break off because they're not supported.
Fabric glued in the place of core might help prevent tip breakage, but I dunno if it will be enough.
For stab-safe spears, I believe there's a construction method in the UK that involves using softer foam for the tips. The softer foam takes the initial impact of the stab, then is backed up by the firmer foam underneath. Coreless soft foam is less likely to snap than coreless hard foam, but perhaps more likely to tear.
I'm looking for instructions online, but here's all I've found:
I'm not entirely sure what that means. I think the thick leather is the puncture protector, to stop the fibreglass core pushing through (like arrow construction, except I'd use a coin for that purpose not leather). On top of it is some closed-cell foam, so that the protector has something firm to press against. The rest is open-cell foam. But how much of the length of the head is closed-cell and how much is open-cell? And what's this talk about thin layers of closed cell foam "top and bottom" to give it support? Is the spear head he's suggesting made of vertical layers of closed and open cell foam? Seems a bit weird.
I have a stab safe spear hear in Wellington if you want to take a look sometime Idiot.
I made some stab safe stakes by ending some normal density foam handles with low density foam striking points. I got hold of a small amount of closed cell soft foam in the UK, I need to find a supply over here as the open cell foam just soaks up the latex, so you have to prime it with glue first which can make them a little too stiff.
If I find some low density closed cell foam I'll let you know.
I think the end result looks quite nice, the width wouldn't bother me at all. The minimum width of the hard part of the spearhead is probably to ensure that the soft part is wide enough (and thus contains enough soft foam) to absorb a thrusting impact.
You only need a small amount of the low-density closed-cell foam for the tip, so there's not much use me recommending places that only sell big sheets (and mostly to commercial customers). If we put our thinking caps on we might come up with some product or packaging that uses small amounts of this sort of foam, that you could plunder.
Idiot, are you coming down tomorrow for weapons practice? If so I'll bring my stab safe spear along to show you.
Even more than normal weapons stab safe ones need to be even more stringently made and tested. The advantage with closed cell foam is that it doesn't soak up the latex and become too hard. I made a batch of stakes for the last game of SWG with closed cell foam to produce stab safe stakes and was pleased with the result.
I believe some people use open cell foam and seal it with a thin coat of Ados, trouble with that is it can stiffen up the foam too much.
Things to think about are putting cheeks of normal density foam where the low density foam butts up too the normal density foam, to stop tearing.
I think it's worth taking a proper look at a stab safe weapon before undertaking building one, so next time we catch up I'll bring mine along (just remind me!)
another material that i know from experience is squishy and god for thrusting tips is plumbing insolation, a bit expensive but if nothing else works that will do the trick and seeing it comes as a hollowed tube it is almost in the right shape already. the only real problem is it has little to no modeling ability so you wont be able to change it's shape with out a lot of glue or tape. here is a website that gives more details. groups.google.com/group/swordtag ... nstruction Hope this helps